Road Tandem Tires – generally tandem teams look for a wider profile “touring” type tire with thread casing in the 100+ tpi area. With the narrow profile and short sidewalls road tandem teams need to be concerned with puncture resistance, blowout strength, and sidewall stiffness. The worst case scenario on a road bike is to blow out a tire and drop rim to pavement in a manner that causes loss of control. A wider tire also creates a larger contact patch with the pavement to create a smooth ride.

Look for wound casing, folding bead, Kevlar lined tires in the 25+ width sizes.

Mountain Tandem Tires – As with the braking systems tandem mountain bikes have benefited from downhill and free-ride mountain biking. The drive for “motorcycle like” tread patterns in these aggressive mountain bike disciplines and ensuing puncture resistance and sidewall strength demands allows tandems to be fitted with tires designed for aggressive use.

Unfortunately most downhill type tires ignore weight concerns and most active tandem teams opt for a more conservative tire setup leaning towards a mild free-ride to XC tire in the 2.2″ width range. When selecting tires for a tandem mountain bike ask and answer the following questions:

1. Primary terrain to be encountered?
2. General riding style (fast climbers or fast descenders)?
3. Rim size (wider rims can support wider tires and also form a good backup in case of blowouts)?
4. Budget (the more aggressive tires can be pricey)?

Proper tire selection for your tandem relies heavily upon trial and error. For mountain bike teams monitor your tires for chunking on the sidewalls (loss of rubber blocks on the edge of the tread) and grip while riding. For road tandem teams monitor tread wear on the center and cracking of the rubber (higher performance tire rubber tends to shrink and crack). Remember that a tandem team’s worst case scenario is a blowout at speed; take care of your tires so that they can take care of you.

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The options available to tandem teams in terms of safety are the same as available to solo cyclists with the caveat that more care needs to be taken of the machine. A tandem bike, notably the components, are more susceptible to fatigue related failure. The combination of two riders with mass applying torque on two connected pendulums will prematurely wear parts that would normally never fail on a single bike. When seeking additional safety on a tandem look at your components first.

With the tandem in safe form your next safety line is found with the items you choose to wear. For solo cyclists the bigger risk for serious injury comes in endo style crashes (over the handlebars). For protection from these types of injuries a standard helmet, gloves, and a hydration pack can minimize injuries. Tandems are much less susceptible to this type of crash due to the long wheel base and seperation of mass front to back.

Tandem teams are susceptible to side to side crashes, wash outs of the front tire, and accidents with third parties (think “cars”). In these types of crashes the stoker tends to be more at risk since they “never see it coming”. One second they are pedaling along and the next they are lying in a heap on the side of the road. Safety gear needs are obviously different. Being unaware of the impending doom (artistic expression added here) tandem teams should look for equipment that will provide additional protection to areas that will have first contact with the ground.

• Helmets that provide additional side and rear coverage or even mouth protection can provide additional levels of security.
• Some stokers elect to wear body armor knee/ shin guards and elbow guards (primarily spotted on mountain tandem teams).
• Full finger cycling gloves can protect more of the hand from road rash and lacerations.
• High dollar cycling shoes with molded heels and toes protect the foot from foreign objects.
• Sunglasses that offer more than just style. Shades that include design elements to keep them attached to your face during a fall will ensure your eyes receive some level of protection after you hit the ground.

Finally it is necessary to ensure information is easily accessible. Think about the worst case scenario where both riders are incapacitated after a crash. Do either of you have allergies? Is there an emergency contact outside of the two individuals lying on the ground? All those important details that can help save your life and care for your injuries might be lost in this worst case situation. Take steps to provide information to first responders. At a minimum make sure both riders have id on their person or the tandem. Add additional ICE (in case of emergency) contacts into a cellular phone other than the individual you normally ride with. If you have allergies or immediate medical conditions carry a card explaining so. Taking this a step further their are third party services that use an ID tag to provide this data to first responders. Our editors have experience with the “Road ID” system and can vouch for the quality of the service.

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During installation or the building process of a tandem frame the mechanic will apply grease between adjoining parts. Over time as a result of wear, grit, or water this grease will be removed allowing the parts to touch directly. This touching is the source of 99% of all strange noises from the tandem.

To eliminate strange noises it should be obvious that simply applying grease to the areas where it has washed away will solve the problem. Unfortunately finding that one source of missing grease can be quite trying. To help troubleshoot the potential sources we provide the following list of potential culprits in order of likeliness:

1. Noise While Pedaling
   1. Bottom Bracket
   2. Chain-rings
   3. Chain
   4. Derailleur Pulleys
   5. Pedals
   6. Shoes
   7. Seat Rails
   8. Seat Posts
   9. Handlebar or Stem
2. Noise while coasting
   1. Wheel bearings
   2. Spokes
   3. Rims (Cracked)
   4. Brake shoes (Rubbing)
   5. Bottom Bracket
   6. Pedals
   7. Shoes
   8. Seat Rails
   9. Seat Post
   10. Handlebar or Stem

The best method for identifying the source of the noise is to use the above list while the tandem is in a stationary position and listen for the noise emanating from the part. For example, place the tandem securely in a stand and pedal the cranks as you listen closely to the bottom bracket. If the noise is coming from there remove and grease the area. If the noise is not coming from there move on to the chain rings. Working your way down the list should eventually sort out the source and quiet that noise.

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Answer: Used tandems present a unique opportunity for tandem teams to enter into the sport on a tighter budget. Buying second hand allows you to dable without fully committing and depending on the tandem purchased may be a great way to get a very nice tandem bike on the cheap. The downside is that purchasing a used tandem presents an entirely new set of early risks not found in buying or building a new tandem.

When purchasing a used tandem your inspection should begin at the frame level. Depending upon age, frame design, and material used there are a number of points of contact to inspect for signs of premature wear, previous damage and repairs, and signs of neglect. Generally speaking tandems are manufactured using the standard materials of the day; steel on pre-1990 frames, aluminum on post-1990 frames, and carbon fiber on more recent road tandem frames. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages, beyond the scope of this answer, so perform some web searches for “signs of fatigue on xyz material” to learn more about what to look for. In your cursory review look for weld cracks, gouged tubing, or signs of early fatigue.

If the frame checks out next move on to the components. Tandem bikes are generally assembled using heavier duty single bike parts. While suitable for use on tandems these parts are not designed or certified for use on a tandem. In your inspection start with the parts that can cause catastrophic failures:

• The fork and steerer tube should be in complete working order with no signs of bending or cracks.
• The captain seatpost should be straight and show no signs of stress cracks.
• The stoker stem, coming off the seatpost, should also be properly attached and display no stress cracks.
• The stoker seatpost should be straight and if it is a suspension type post should have proper movement.
• The wheels should be straight and true with no dents or flat spots on the rims. Inspect the spokes for broken or replacement parts with careful attention to the drive side rear spokes for signs of chain slap gouges that can weaken said spokes. The hubs should spin smoothly with no lateral or vertical play in the bearings.
• The brakes should operate properly with the brake pads and braking surface displaying no signs of misuse (ie gouges, ridges, severe discoloration, etc).
• The bottom brackets should spin smoothly with no lateral or vertical play. Pay attention to the crank arms for signs of stress fractures.
• The drivetrain should operate smoothly with all cog teeth displaying normal wear patterns. Pay attention to bent or broken cogs/ chainrings.

Overall you are looking for signs of neglect or abuse. A tandem is designed to handle the weight and torsional forces delivered by two riders but the components, generally, are not. Should you be unsure of how to inspect any of the parts above then do take the bike to a qualified shop for inspection. If there is any doubt about the status of a component part now is the time to replace it.

If everything checks out a this point do plan on replacing the following components/ parts no matter what:

• Tires and tubes
• Pedals (go with the style you are used to)
• Seat (same as pedals)
• Brake pads
• Brake fluid if equipped with hydraulic brakes
• Shifter cables and brake cables (if equipped)
• Grips or bar tape

Assuming everything has checked out, been replaced, and the used tandem is in your hands take care on your first few rides to not push the new tandem to the limits. View the first few trips as a breakin period for both your tandem team and the tandem bike. Get to know the characteristics and handling traits of the rig. Pay close attention to the frame and components for any signs that you may have missed in previous inspections.

As your comfort level increases with your ability to handle the new bike and with the condition and quality of the tandem begin to up the intensity of your rides and enjoy the fun of a tandem bike.

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As can be viewed in this photo, from the team TandemBicycling.com full suspension mountain bike tandem, even long travel suspension frames are susceptible to serious forces transmitted to the stoker.

To combat the inevitable fatigue and pains the stoker will feel most tandems will be spec’d with a suspension seatpost. The suspension seatpost, once adjusted properly, will help absorb the big hits and small vibrations resulting in a more smooth and comfortable ride for the stoker.

It is also important to work on communication between captain and stoker. In the case of the photo above, the captain failed to warn the stoker of a major bump on a fire road decent. The suspension performed its duty in softening the blow but the torsional force of the stoker rising and sinking was too much for this post to handle. The team would have been better off if the captain provided the warning and the stoker then transitioned her wait to the pedals and handlebar.

On road tandems clear signs of extreme vibrational problems can be found in saddle soreness and early muscle fatigue for the stoker. Simply replacing a standard seatpost with a short travel suspension post will alleviate the vibration induced pains.

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The answer starts with basic physics. Tandem teams, notably tandem mountain bike teams, place a huge amount of rotational and torsional stress on the bottom brackets. With the standard left side stoker to captain chain and the drive side chain on the rear bottom bracket this component experiences stress it was not designed to handle.

Standard bottom bracket designs incorporate two bearings, one on each side, that allows the spindle to rotate smoothly. In some cases the drive side bearings are designed to withstand more stress. Heavier duty bottom brackets take this drive side support up a level with dual drive side bearings and a single bearing on the non-drive side. For tandem teams this solution still does not resolve the problems with added stress to the non-drive side of the equation.

Currently there is only one viable alternative that affords tandem teams a usable option for the bottom bracket. FSA manufactures a quad bearing bottom bracket. With four bearings set into two on the drive side and two on the non-drive side tandem teams are afforded added durability to the bottom bracket.

In the case of this reader’s question the timing of the bottom bracket failure coincided with heavy rains in the area. The assumption one can easily make is that the bottom bracket failed as a result of the rain when the real cause was probably premature wear from the vigors of tandem usage. Replacing the part with a quad bearing FSA bottom bracket should improve longevity for this team.

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Regular inner tubes are designed and manufactured with solo bikes in mind. The density and pressure they can withstand, while suitable for basic riding use, can be taken a bit far by a tandem. It is not uncommon for a basic tube to blowout at a seam under the stress of riding.

To prevent avoidable flats it is best to select the higher end tubes made by some of the better known manufacturers or selecting the thicker “thorn resistant” tubes. Latex tubes should be avoided at all costs as their thin walls are not designed to support a tandem.

When changing tires take care to inspect the outside of the tube. Look for signs of scuffing along the top bead from friction between tube and tire. Also inspect the valve stem for signs of cracking.

Should you flat during a ride also pay special care to the tire itself. The pressure release from a flat can damage the thread casing leaving that section of the tire prone to tears thus allowing the tube to poke through and blow a short time later. In a pinch a dollar bill, foil energy bar wrapper, or tube patch can be used to reinforce the tire casing and get you home.

The inner tubes on a tandem bike are often the most neglected piece of equipment but with some care in selecting the appropriate brand and attention paid at maintenance they should perform adequately for the needs of a tandem team.

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Thanks to cross over technology from motorcycles and the popularity of free-ride and downhill mountain biking, brake system manufacturers have advanced the curve on bicycle disc brake systems. With technology once reserved for indy cars our tandems can be equipped with multi-piston parallel push hydraulic disc brake systems.

The advantages of modern disc brake systems make them ideal for most every tandem bicycle (as long as the frame is designed with disc brake caliper mounting tabs).

• Excellent stopping power
• Long lasting friction material
• Quick cooling rotors
• Modulated hydraulic brake levers
• Light “finger feel” and easy braking control

When first installing a tandem brake setup the brakes must be properly “plumbed” from the brake lever body to the caliper. Most modern mountain bike brake systems come from the factory pre-bled. A tandem teams mechanic will need to drain the old fluid, remove the stock brake hose, and install a longer length of hydraulic brake tubing for the rear caliper. Following the manufacturers recommended bleeding procedure the lines must be cleared of all air pockets to ensure proper performance after refilling the brake lines.

When riding with disc brakes it is important for the captain to modulate the brakes during long or intense braking cycles. While disc brakes are good at dissipating heat they are not perfect and can succumb to heat induced fading. By alternating braking with non-braking the captain can offer the caliper an extra moment to cool.

Also of note is that following an intense downhill run a tandem brake calipers and rotors will be dangerously hot to the touch. Avoid contact with these components until they have time to cool. Depending on the model and design pouring water from your bottle or hydration pack can speed up this cooling process.

Modern disc brake setups afford tandem teams a consistent and safe method for slowing, stopping, and controlling their rigs. This added safety has further extended the ability of tandem teams to go anywhere and do anything.

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Response: The rear hub is likely the single most stressed component on a tandem mountain bike. It must handle the vertical, horizontal, and rotational forces applied by a tandem team. The long wheelbase of a tandem allows tandem teams to climb grades barely manageable by normal bikes. When combined with the double power and torque applied via the gear ratios the rear hub, specifically the freehub mechanism, receives extreme stress.

Standard Shimano freehubs use interlocking metal wedges and springs to allow the mechanism to operate. These small pieces fail regularly on single bikes and will fail when used for any extensive mountain tandem work. All hubs except the internally geared and Chris King use a form of the standard Shimano freehub and associated wedges and springs.

In contrast the Chris King Rear Hub eliminates the springs and wedges in exchange for a type of screw drive. The screw allows the free hub to rotate freely during coasting and almost immediately engages when pedaling. They also offer steel upgrades replacing the lighter but weaker aluminum internals for super strong steel. Link

For the majority of tandem teams the freehub body of a standard shimano type will see a premature failure. Upgrading to a Chris King type rear hub will result in the best possible outcome.

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1. Foreign Objects – the easiest to identify are foreign objects like thorns and nails. Protruding through the tread or sidewall the object punctures the tube causing loss of tire pressure. Upon removing the old tube use your hand to gently feel the inside of the tire casing for the offending object and remove.
2. Pinch Flats – the easiest to correct pinch flats are caused by a compression of the tire sidewall to the rim edge squeezing the tube causing dual punctures that will rapidly release air. Caused by running low tire pressures over uneven terrain, think rocks, roots, or potholes, the easiest solution is to run higher tire pressures in your tubes.
3. Cut sidewalls – inadvertently riding through broken glass or sharp stones can slice the fiber sidewalls of your tire. The resulting hole allows the tube to balloon out and puncture. Before the tube can be replaced and re-inflated the tire needs to be replaced or, if the puncture repair occurs on the road, a patch can be made using dollar bills or energy bar wrappers to cover the cut. The goal is to stop the tube from poking through the tear.
4. Rim Burs – The inside of a tandem rim is covered with multiple sharp junctions that can easily flatten a tube. The spoke nipple holes, rim weld seal, and tube valve hole are potential sources of edges that can cut a tube. These are the pesky flat causes that can go undiagnosed for months. Usually the result of old rim tape that has shifted to one side tandem teams are generally unaware of the problem and will go through multiple tubes until the culprit is identified. Using a small metal file to clear burs and applying new rim tape normally solves the problem.

Flat tires are the bane of most tandem teams existence but ride enough miles and they are guaranteed to happen. With this checklist as your guide hopefully the 3-peats will be avoided.

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